Time to take advantage of that “future expansion” I mentioned in my last post. The space left after removing the shelf is 38″ wide by 22″ high by 8″ deep. Perfect for a flat-panel if you ask me. I researched every single panel made in the last 2 years and found a discontinued one by Sharp that had both removable speakers and a separate ‘tuner’ box. It measured 21 1/2 inches high by 36″ wide. It was going to be a challenge to mount but one I was willing to take on. I took a chance and ordered a used/refurbished Sharp Aquos 37G4U on eBay. I wanted the separate tuner box because the other components (DVD/TiVo, etc) were going to be about 8 feet away and I’d rather route one large cord to the screen then 3 or 4 component cables (each with 3-5 RCA leads) and the cable TV coax. Plus, the screen is in a very tight space which is not good for cooling. The fewer electronics there to generate heat the better.
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I couldn’t use a typical plasma/LCD mount in this set-up because I didn’t have enough space to ‘drop’ the screen into the mount (most had a 1/2 “lip” to hold the screen). A full articulating mount seemed like overkill, plus the ones for 37″ TVs are very expensive. I thought about custom-building a simple mount out of aluminum, but didn’t want to try it without a drill press. Fortunately, I found a good compromise with the Peerless 850 — it pulls out a modest 10″ and rotates a bit. Great for good ventilation during long movies, or for rotating the TV a bit when folding laundry on the floor.
With only 1/4″ clearance on the top and bottom, accuracy was critical. I test-fit the screen on the mount on some bare stud-walls in the basement to get exact measurements before trying it for real.
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Here it is installed in the shelves.
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Now for the wiring. In the lower-left of this picture you can see the DVD player and the tuner box tucked under the built-in desk area. The large gray cord is all that goes to the TV.
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Then I used a hole-saw bit with an extender to drill through the shelves and the wall.
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I installed some PVC pipe as conduit in the longer runs through the wall to make running the wire easier.Â
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I didn’t want to cause a lot of damage getting it out, since I didn’t want to make this into a drywall project, too. A circular saw wasn’t going to make a big cut once I set the depth guage to about 1/2″ (the gash in the wood is where I tried to do that and changed my mind). A quick trip to Home Depot solved my problem — I found the as-seen-on-tv RotoZip that has now been legitimized since it was bought by Bosch. It cuts everything, has a depth gauge, and can get pretty close to the edges of the baseboard. It also comes with this great carrying case:
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I was thinking that it would make a pretty hip purse, and at $150 it seems pretty cheap when compared to a designer bag. What other handbag comes with a RotoZip as the included accessory?
To make an already long story somewhat shorter, the RotoZip lived up to its name and I had the wood pulled out in about 60 seconds without damaging the neighboring drywall.
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I RotoZipped through some of the lath, dropped a coax into the garage, hid the large hole in the wall with the DVD player and Tivo, moved the tools back to the garage, cleaned up enormous mess I made, and now I’m ready for houseguests! (And I’ll get away with it as long as my guests don’t read my blog.)